Muhammad Ali Sadpara is the only Pakistani to have climbed eight of the fourteen 8,000 meter peaks. He’s a lost jewel of Pakistan who wanted nothing but another feather in the nation’s cap by accomplishing the K-2 Winter 2021 mission on February 5th, 2021.
The man who was always ready for the rescue operation to save lives still goes missing. In the Alpinist interview, Sadpara said he wanted a sewing machine for his wife and for himself a winter ascent of K2. All these pursuits required money. Money that was made by carrying backbreaking loads on rugged, cruel terrain that showed no mercy.
“I didn’t have the right boots, didn’t have a down jacket, let alone a down suit to protect me from the harsh cold. I had some second-hand climbing gear which I bought from the market in Skardu and repaired. But I still managed to climb and come back safely.”
And since then there was no looking back. He went on to climb Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008, Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009, Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010, Nanga Parbat First Winter Ascent (Pakistan) in 2016, Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017, Nanga Parbat First Autumn Ascent (Pakistan) in 2017, Pumori Peak First Winter Ascent (Nepal) in 2017, K2 (Pakistan) in 2018, Lhotse (Nepal) in 2019, Makalu (Nepal) in 2019 and Manaslu (Nepal) in 2019.
There are few who would love to climb if their financial burdens were eased. For climbing, one has to be free from restraints,” Sadpara added. Back in 2016, he said he wouldn’t want his children to follow his profession.
Sadpara was in the search team that had been looking for a British climber Tom Ballard and Italian climber Daniele Nardi who were reported missing on Nanga Parbat. Their bodies were later found on the mountain.
The man who was always ready for the rescue operation to save lives still goes missing. He’s the only Pakistani to have climbed eight of the 14 8,000 meter peaks.
Pakistan is home to five 8,000m peaks including K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and II. The remaining are in Nepal and China.
Sadpara came to prominence in local media when he, along with Spain’s Alex Txikon and Italy’s Simone Moro, made a world record with the first winter summit of Nanga Parbat in 2016.
The Spaniard and the Italian said their summit would not have been possible without Sadpara, a rousing endorsement for a man largely hidden from the public eye in Pakistan.
Ali Sadpara celebrated his 45th Birthday at K2 BC on 2nd February before he started the summit bid. Those who didn't know, he is one of three people (verified), to scale Nanga Parbat in winter for the very first time, which they did in 2016. (1/2) pic.twitter.com/Qo15irNCnb
— Everest Today (@EverestToday) February 7, 2021
Sadpara started out as a porter. He found his first proper climbing gig in 2004 when he accompanied an expedition to K2.
Muhammad Ali Sadpara is a gem of a person who lost in clouds of ice thousands of meters high from the ground.
He’s a lost jewel of Pakistan who wanted nothing but another feather in the nation’s cap by accomplishing the K-2 Winter 2021 mission on February 5th, 2021.